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  #11  
Old 19-04-10, 11:40 AM
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JeffG JeffG is offline
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Hi Catherine;

Thanks for mentioning you sent me an email. I use a special account when I sign up on forums to cut down on potential spamming, and I don't check it as often as my "real" email. I'll send you an answer ASAP.

While waiting for that email, you can find much of my technique covered in the step-by-step demo I've posted on this site; in the subforum "Work in Progress", in the thread by me called "The Moon-Williamson House" at:
http://www.eggtempera.com/forumnew/showthread.php?t=313
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  #12  
Old 19-04-10, 12:47 PM
dbclemons dbclemons is offline
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Once the primer dries to the touch, I've found that pressing down the panel under some weight for a few hours as the water continues to evaporate will help keep it from curling.
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  #13  
Old 21-04-10, 03:17 PM
Alessandra Kelley Alessandra Kelley is offline
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If you gesso both sides equally it keeps the panel from warping. This is why I like the masonite that's smooth on both sides.

I would think you would want to keep the gesso roughly equal front and back. You don't have to sand the back, obviously (unless you're planning to paint on both sides).
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  #14  
Old 21-04-10, 04:53 PM
VK VK is offline
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Regarding gesso and warping, here is my experience.

I recently made a bunch of panels 18 x 24 inches. Some of them were made from 1/2 inch plywood (7 layers I think). I used a polyster cloth and finished gessoing one side with several layers and let it dry completely -- no warping at all. I still went with a thin layer on the backside for sealing purposes.

The rest of the panels were 1/4th inch MDF and Luan. The Luan tends to warp less, the MDF does warp a lot. The trick mentioned by dbclemons works well (only did this on some panels though as I ran out of weights). Of the warped ones, some were still wet (touch-dry) when I painted the back sides and these striaghtened out nicely. The ones that were completely dry (a couple of days) -- I have been trying to unwarp them by painting more gesso on the backside (and using the weight as well) but they aren't fully straight yet.. may need more layers on the back.

One more interesting thing was that I temporarily ran out of whiting and used china clay (bole) instead. These panels were on MDF (I have to do more layers on them) and they didnt seem to warp at all even though I only hit one side. I might be inclined to use china clay in future -- it seems to form a much smoother surface, but I would need to finish these and see how they work.

I also had a couple of 24x48 (inch) pieces of masonite (1/8th inch thick) that I gessoed only one side, several layers. Absolutely no warping at all. This was a nice piece of very stiff and dark masonite -- unfortunately, I haven't been able to locate this stock again (the new ones are lighter in color and seem to chip more easily. this one was fairly strong and didnt chip).
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  #15  
Old 22-04-10, 05:30 PM
artistcb artistcb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffG View Post
While waiting for that email, you can find much of my technique covered in the step-by-step demo I've posted on this site; in the subforum "Work in Progress", in the thread by me called "The Moon-Williamson House" at:
http://www.eggtempera.com/forumnew/showthread.php?t=313
Hi Jeff, Well you amaze me. I went to take a look and looked at the first picture (not keeping in mind that it was a WIP) and I just thought wow that is really really good. By the time I scrolled down to the last picture I was just laughing because each picture I got to I kept thinking okay this must be it how could it possibly get better and everytime I looked at the next picture I was re-amazed! << Is that a word???

A question, does silverpoint allow you to put a wash over it without disappearing? Where do I get a silverpoint if I wanted to use that instead of india ink?
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  #16  
Old 22-04-10, 08:42 PM
VK VK is offline
(Ramesh Vyaghrapuri)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artistcb View Post
A question, does silverpoint allow you to put a wash over it without disappearing? Where do I get a silverpoint if I wanted to use that instead of india ink?
You can buy silverpoint tools online (naturalpigments.com stocks a lot of tips) but they tend to be expensive for no real reason I can think of. If you can find some local jewellers and get a piece of wire through them about 1-2mm thick and put it into a mechanical pencil that takes thick lead, this works just as well. You can also get gold wire the same way. Sometimes, they only have sterling silver which is a little too hard but they will mail order purer silver for you.

But if you are going to apply washes on top of the drawing, you could use steel or aluminum wire (I have used copper too though technically, this isnt entirely compatible with egg tempera and might react to the paints but there is so little metal deposited that I doubt there is likely any problem). You can find aluminum wire in some hardware stores (electrical ACM wire). I just checked and it looks like naturalpigments now stocks aluminum & brass wires as well.

And dont worry about the special ground for silverpoint -- traditional gesso panels are fantastic to draw onto (infact, I use a steel ruler which often ends up marking the panel quite dark.. one of these days, I might use it to just draw as it makes a beautiful mark, not sure what alloy it is).

[Edit, forgot to add this]
Silver, Aluminum, Steel, Copper & Gold points are too light, any washes will generally overpower them. Havent tried brass or lead.

Last edited by VK; 22-04-10 at 08:44 PM.
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